Garage door problems, explained
Common garage door problems and what to do
Every answer from the Problem Finder, in one place. If your door is unsafe, stop using it and call (647) 771-7139.
Won’t open
Stop using the door — callA broken torsion spring
The springs above the door lift almost all of its weight. When one breaks you usually hear a loud bang and see a gap in the coil. The opener can’t lift the door on its own, and the door can drop suddenly.
Safe to check: From a safe distance, look at the spring on the bar above the door for a gap in the coil; If your car is inside, leave the door closed and call — we’ll open it safely.
Please don’t: Don’t keep pressing the opener — it can strip the gear or bend the door; Don’t touch, loosen or wind the springs or cables — they hold dangerous tension; Don’t pull the red release cord if the door is open — it can fall.
What DPS does: Replaces the broken spring with a correctly sized, cycle-rated spring (usually both springs, so they wear evenly), checks the cables, rollers and bearings, then balances and tests the door and opener.
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Book a repair soonThe door is disconnected from the opener — or the opener gear is stripped
If the motor runs but nothing moves, the door may have been released from the opener (the red cord), the drive gear inside the opener may be worn out, or a broken spring is making the door too heavy.
Safe to check: Look at the springs above the door first — if one has a gap, stop and call; If the red emergency cord was pulled and the springs look fine, press the opener once — most openers re-connect on their own; Listen: a hum with no movement often means a stripped gear.
Please don’t: Don’t keep running the motor — it overheats; Don’t lift the door by hand if it feels very heavy.
What DPS does: Finds the exact cause, reconnects the trolley, replaces the drive gear or sprocket if worn, or repairs the springs — then sets the opener force and travel limits and tests the safety reverse.
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Try a quick check firstThe opener isn’t getting power — or it’s locked
When nothing at all happens, the cause is often simple: a tripped breaker or GFCI outlet, an unplugged opener, or the “lock / vacation” mode on the wall button.
Safe to check: Is the opener light working? Check that it’s plugged in; Reset the GFCI outlet (press “Reset”) and check the breaker; Look for a “Lock” button or light on the wall control — hold it for a few seconds to unlock; Try the wall button and the remote — does either work?.
Please don’t: Don’t open the opener cover or touch the wiring; Don’t force the door by hand if it’s heavy.
What DPS does: Tests the power, wall control, logic board and safety wiring, repairs or replaces the faulty part, or recommends a new opener if the old one isn’t worth repairing.
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Try a quick check firstThe bottom seal is frozen to the ground
In an Ontario winter, water under the door can freeze the rubber seal to the concrete. The opener strains, and the door may lift unevenly or not at all.
Safe to check: Gently chip the ice along the bottom with a plastic scraper; Melt it with a hair dryer or a little de-icer — then dry the area; Clear snow and water away from the door so it doesn’t refreeze.
Please don’t: Don’t keep pressing the opener — it can tear the seal or strip the gear; Don’t pour hot water — it refreezes; Don’t use a metal shovel on the seal.
What DPS does: Frees the door, replaces a torn bottom seal with a cold-weather seal, and adjusts the opener force so it doesn’t strain on cold mornings.
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Won’t close / goes back up
Try a quick check firstThe safety sensors are blocked, dirty or misaligned
Two small sensors near the floor send a beam across the opening. If anything blocks it — a broom, a bin, dirt, sunlight, or a bumped sensor — the door goes back up for safety. Many openers blink the light to tell you.
Safe to check: Move anything near the bottom of the opening; Wipe both sensor lenses with a soft cloth; Check both sensor lights are steady (not blinking or off) — gently line them up if one was bumped; Look for a loose or cut sensor wire.
Please don’t: Don’t disconnect or bypass the sensors — they stop the door from closing on people and pets.
What DPS does: Realigns or replaces the sensors and wiring, and tests the auto-reverse so the door is safe for your family.
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Book a repair soonThe opener’s close settings need adjusting
If the door touches the floor and then reverses, the opener thinks it hit something. The travel limit or force setting is off, or the door has become hard to move.
Safe to check: Look for ice, a stone or anything under the door; Watch whether the door moves smoothly by itself or seems to bind.
Please don’t: Don’t turn the force setting all the way up — the safety reverse may stop working; Don’t keep cycling it while it fights.
What DPS does: Checks the door balance and tracks first, then sets the travel limits and force correctly and tests the safety reverse.
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Also see: The opener isn’t getting power — or it’s locked
Crooked, off track or cable loose
Stop using the door — callThe door is off track
When rollers come out of the track the door is held at an angle and can twist or fall. It’s often caused by a hit, a worn roller, a bent track or a cable problem.
Safe to check: Keep people, pets and cars away from the door; Unplug the opener so nobody presses the button.
Please don’t: Don’t open or close the door; Don’t try to force rollers back into the track — the door can fall; Don’t touch the cables or springs.
What DPS does: Secures the door, puts it back on track, straightens or replaces bent track and worn rollers, checks the cables and springs, then balances and tests everything.
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Stop using the door — callA lift cable is loose or broken
The cables carry the spring tension to the bottom corners of the door. A loose or snapped cable lets one side drop, and the door can jam or fall.
Safe to check: Keep everyone clear of the door; Unplug the opener.
Please don’t: Don’t open or close the door; Don’t touch the cable, drum or bottom bracket — they are under high tension.
What DPS does: Releases the spring tension safely, replaces both cables (and the drums or bottom brackets if worn), then balances and tests the door.
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Loud or noisy
Try a quick check firstDry hinges, rollers or springs
Squeaks usually mean metal parts are dry. A little garage-door lubricant often makes a big difference — and a tune-up fixes the rest.
Safe to check: Spray a garage-door lubricant (silicone or white lithium) on the hinges, the roller bearings and the springs; Wipe off any extra; Run the door a few times.
Please don’t: Don’t grease the tracks — it collects dirt; Don’t tighten or loosen the bottom brackets.
What DPS does: A full tune-up: lubricates every moving part, tightens hardware, checks the balance, springs, cables and rollers, and adjusts the opener.
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Book a repair soonWorn rollers, bearings or loose hardware
Grinding and rattling usually come from worn rollers, worn bearings, loose hinges or a door that is out of balance. Left alone, worn parts can lead to the door coming off track.
Safe to check: Watch the rollers as the door moves — wobbly or chipped rollers are worn; Look for loose nuts or bolts on the hinges.
Please don’t: Don’t ignore new banging sounds — they can be a spring or cable problem; Don’t touch the springs or cables.
What DPS does: Replaces worn rollers (quiet nylon rollers are available), hinges and bearings, tightens the hardware and balances the door so it runs smoothly and quietly.
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Also see: A broken torsion spring
Remote or keypad not working
Try a quick check firstThe remote or keypad needs a battery — or reprogramming
If the wall button works, the opener is fine. The remote or keypad usually has a dead battery, has lost its programming, or the opener is in “lock” mode.
Safe to check: Replace the battery in the remote or keypad; Make sure the wall control isn’t in “lock / vacation” mode; Stand closer to the door and try again.
Please don’t: Don’t open the opener cover.
What DPS does: Programs new or existing remotes and keypads, sets up smartphone control if you want it, or replaces a faulty receiver.
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Also see: The opener isn’t getting power — or it’s locked
Heavy, slams down or stops halfway
Stop using the door — callWorn or broken springs — the door is out of balance
A door that is heavy, opens a few feet and stops, or drops quickly isn’t being held by its springs any more. This is the most common cause of opener damage and doors falling.
Safe to check: Look at the springs above the door for a gap in the coil; Keep the door closed if you can.
Please don’t: Don’t use the door until it’s checked; Don’t pull the red release cord with the door open — it can fall; Don’t touch, wind or loosen the springs.
What DPS does: Replaces worn springs with the right size for your door, checks the cables and drums, balances the door and tests the opener.
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Dented, bent or hit by a car
Book a repair soonPanel damage — the door still runs
Dents and cracks can often be fixed by replacing just the damaged section, if it’s still available. Older or badly damaged doors are sometimes better replaced.
Safe to check: Take a photo of the whole door and a close-up of the damage; Find the brand or model sticker on the inside of the door, if there is one.
Please don’t: Don’t try to hammer out dents — it can crack the panel.
What DPS does: Checks whether matching sections are available, replaces the damaged section or shows you new door options, and checks that the door still runs safely.
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Stop using the door — callThe door is bent or binding
A bent section or track puts heavy stress on the springs, cables and opener. The door can jam, come off track or fall.
Safe to check: Unplug the opener; Keep people and cars away from the door; If it was a car accident, take photos for your insurance.
Please don’t: Don’t open or close the door; Don’t try to pull it straight.
What DPS does: Secures the door the same day when we can, replaces the bent sections or track, or installs a new door — and gives you the paperwork for an insurance claim.
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Drafts, water or light under the door
Book a repair soonWorn bottom seal or weatherstripping
The rubber seal at the bottom and the stops on the sides wear out, crack in the cold or get chewed. Gaps let in drafts, water, snow and mice.
Safe to check: Close the door and look for daylight along the bottom and sides; Check the bottom rubber for tears or flat spots.
Please don’t: Don’t lower the opener limit to “push” the door down — it can damage the door.
What DPS does: Replaces the bottom seal and side weatherstripping, and adjusts the door so it closes evenly on the floor.
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